Get ready to dust off your tuxedos—the watch world is officially going formal, and Oris is leading the charge with a stunning revival of a century-old style. But here’s where it gets controversial: is the tuxedo dial a timeless classic or just a fleeting trend? Let’s dive in.
The year 2026 is barely underway, and already the watch industry has crowned its first major trend: the tuxedo dial. This elegant design, characterized by two concentric black and white circles, has been making waves since late 2025, with brands like Serica and Laco joining the movement. Now, Oris is solidifying the trend by resurrecting its iconic “Bullseye” design—a bold move that blends heritage with modern appeal.
For those new to this monochrome marvel, a tuxedo dial typically features a striking contrast between black and white, often executed with precious metals rather than pigments. Think of the Universal Genève Polerouter as the quintessential example. But Oris takes it a step further with its “Bullseye” design, adding a third circle for a dartboard-inspired look that’s both playful and sophisticated.
And this is the part most people miss: Oris’s deep archives include tuxedo dials from the 1920s, when the style first gained popularity. The “Bullseye” dial, in particular, was a favorite from the 1940s through the 1970s. Ulrich W. Herzog, Oris’s Chairman since 1978, has long admired this design, even pushing to revive it after the company’s independence in 1982. After a hiatus since 1998, the “Bullseye” is back—and it’s better than ever.
Adorning Oris’s flagship watch, the Big Crown Pointer Date, the “Bullseye” dial is a masterclass in detail. The outer rim is a chalky white, paired with a red 31-day track and a red-tipped date pointer hand. Moving inward, a black-on-white railroad minutes track evokes the precision of a dartboard’s Double Points Ring. A broad black ring houses white numeral hour markers, while the center matches the outer rim’s off-white shade, featuring the brand logo and model name. The bullseye itself? The base of the cathedral hands, of course.
But here’s the real kicker: the hands and markers glow green with Super-LumiNova, and the dial is protected by a double-domed sapphire crystal. It’s a blend of form and function that’s hard to resist.
What makes the Big Crown Pointer Date so beloved is its versatility. With a simple tweak of colors or details, it can go from sporty to dressy—and this tuxedo dial version is the epitome of elegance. Housed in a 38mm stainless steel case with a coin-edge bezel and satin finish, it’s a watch that commands attention without being overly flashy. The oversized crown, a signature of the Big Crown line, is both functional and stylish.
Powering this beauty is the Oris Caliber 754-1 automatic movement, offering a 41-hour power reserve and visible through a mineral crystal caseback. And let’s not forget the strap—a black deer leather pin buckle sourced from Cervo Volante, a Swiss organization that sustainably harvests deer hides to preserve the Alpine ecosystem. It’s a detail that adds both luxury and responsibility to the design.
Now, here’s the question: Is the tuxedo dial trend here to stay, or is it just a passing fad? Oris’s “Bullseye” certainly makes a strong case for its longevity, combining timeless design with modern craftsmanship. At $2,350, it’s a regular production model that’s accessible yet distinctive, joining the esteemed Big Crown lineup.
So, what do you think? Is the tuxedo dial a must-have for your collection, or is it a trend you’ll pass on? Let us know in the comments—we’d love to hear your thoughts!
